Big Waves

WHAT IS A BIG WAVE?   WHEN I WAS NINE, BIG WAVES WERE ANYTHING OVER TWO FEET.  NOW IT’S MUCH DIFFERENT BECAUSE MY PERCEPTION HAS CHANGED.  I CAN REMEMBER TIMES WHEN I THOUGHT I WAS GOING TO DIE AND IT WAS ONLY FOUR FEET.  I WAS SURFING AT WAIKIKI AND SOME HOW I GOT OUT.  SITTING IN THE LINEUP I WAS TOO SCARED TO CATCH A WAVE.  AFTER AWHILE I MANAGED TO GET IN.  THIS SCENARIO HAS HAPPENED MORE THAN ONCE IN MY LIFE BUT, WHEN YOU GET TO THE BEACH ALIVE IT’S AN EXPERIENCE YOU WON’T FORGET.  NOWADAYS IT TAKES MORE THAN A FOUR FEET WAVE TO MAKE ME FEAR FOR MY LIFE.  I’M SURE IF I LIVE LONG ENOUGH IT WILL HAPPEN AGAIN.

WHY WOULD ANYONE WANT TO TRULY RISK THEIR LIFE, FOR EACH PERSON THE ANSWER IS DIFFERENT.  RIDING BIG WAVES OFFERS A SET OF CHALLENGES THAT CAN’T BE FOUND ANYWHERE ELSE.  FOR ME THE CHALLENGE OF BIG WAVES REMAINS.  IT’S SOMETHING THAT IS UNEXPLAINABLE TO A NON SURFER.  THE ANXIETIES I FEEL STANDING ON THE BEACH WANDERING IF I CAN GET OUT, IMAGINING MYSELF WIPING OUT IN THE PIT OR GETTING CAUGHT INSIDE ON A FREAK SET.  ALL THESE FEARS NEED TO BE OVER COME BEFORE I CAN EVEN PADDLE OUT.  OVERCOMING MY FEARS IS ALL PART OF THE CHALLENGE.  BODYBOARDING THESE WAVES IS MUCH DIFFERENT THAN A SESSION IN TWO TO FOUR FEET SURF.  EVERYTHING IS ON A LARGER SCALE AND THE CONSEQUENCE FOR YOUR ACTIONS ARE MAGNIFIED.  GOOD AND BAD.  THE KEY TO ENJOYING THE CHALLENGE IS TO BE PREPARED.  WORK YOUR WAY UP SLOWLY THIS WILL HELP YOU GAIN CONFIDENCE AND EXPERIENCE TWO OF THE MOST IMPORTANT THINGS.  EXPERIENCE WIILL HELP YOU TO AVOID A LOT OF BAD SITUATIONS.  CONFIDENCE IF YOU THINK YOU CAN YOU WILL AND IF YOU THINK YOU CAN’T YOU WON’T.                                                 

MENTAL PREPARATION.  IN REALLY BIG SURF EVERYONE IS SCARED.  FEAR IS REAL AND IT AFFECTS MIND AND BODY.  YOU MUST THINK CLEARLY AND MAKE DECISIONS.  STAY CALM SO YOU CAN THINK.  FEAR ALSO INCREASES THE AMOUNT OF ADRENALIN IN YOUR BODY WHICH SPEEDS YOUR HEART RATE AND BREATHING USING UP OXYGEN.  ALSO ADRENALIN IS A HIGH, AFTER YOU COME DOWN FROM IT YOU FEEL TIRED.  SO STAY CALM AND SAVE SOME ADRENALIN FOR WHEN YOU NEED IT.

STAYING FIT IS THE KEY TO SURVIVING.  KEEP YOUR CARDIOVASCULAR FITNESS IN TOP SHAPE.  IF YOU KNOW YOU ARE FIT YOUR CONFIDENCE WILL BE HIGH.  RUNNING AND SWIMMING ARE GREAT EXERCISES.  YOUR PERFORMANCE IS ALSO AFFECTED BY YOUR EQUIPMENT.  AGAIN KNOWING YOU HAVE THE RIGHT BOARD ETC. WILL BOOST YOUR CONFIDENCE.  YOU NEED FINS THAT GIVE YOU LOTS OF POWER AND WON’T COME OFF EASILY.  THE BOARD YOU RIDE SHOULD  BE STIFF AND DESIGNED FOR B IG WAVES.  THIS IS WHERE EXPERIENCE COMES IN THROUGH TRIAL AND ERROR.  YOU WILL DISCOVER WHAT WORKS THE BEST FOR YOU.

TO ENJOY RIDINg BIG WAVES YOU HAVE TO WANT “IT”.  IF YOU DON’T ENJOY YOURSELF THERE IS NO SENSE IN DOING IT.  WE ALL SURF BECAUSE IT’S FUN.  SOME PEOPLE DON’T LIKE BEING SCARED OR PUTTING THEIR LIFE ON THE LINE.  RIDING BIG WAVES ADDS ANOTHER DIMENSION TO BODYBOARDING.  IT’S A CHALLENGE THAT NOT EVERYONE WILL TAKE, BUT FOR THOSE WHO DO, IT WILL OFFER THAT CHANCE TO OVERCOME FEAR AND THAT IS ONE OF THE MOST REWARDING THINGS IN LIFE.